Central Florida Doodles


Florida's Sweetest Family Companions

Establishing Pack Order

The most effective training methods use the instincts that your dog is born with to train with.  How to discipline, when to discipline and how much to discipline are all important.  Establishing pack order is very important in a dog's life...  it is how the pack functions in the wild, and YOU are now its' pack!  Establishing yourself and your family/kids as higher in the pack is not being mean, and your puppy will be happy just to know where it fits in the pack regardless of if it is at the 'bottom of the pecking order' or not.  But I guarantee you that your family will be happier if the dog is not at the top of the order!  No dog will obey you or be a pleasure to be around if it "outranks you" and is at the top of the pecking order; it will only obey those that are higher in the pecking order than itself.

  • Puppy should always be fed last and you and your family eat first.  In the wild, the pack leader eats first, followed by the others in order of dominance in the pack.  Your puppy needs to know that ALL members of your family outrank it or the puppy will feel that it is right for it to establish dominance over family members (kids) by nipping, growling and other doggy dominance behaviors.
  • If you have young children, teach your puppy that it must be invited to eat when you put the food down.  That way, it doesn't just barge in and be rude about it.  After it has learned that with you, your children can take turns feeding it so it learns to mind your children also.
  • Your children (with your supervision) should not only practice giving the puppy treats where it takes them gently, but they should also take treats or toys away and the puppy must not be allowed to growl or nip.  Then the treat/toy is given back.  The idea is that ANYBODY in your family should be able to take anything out of that dog's mouth and it will permit it.  This is also for safety as there will be times when the pup has something in its mouth that is dangerous (like a small ball it could choke on) and you need to be able to go into its mouth safely.  Make sure that kids don't do this as a teasing game!
  • Your puppy should not be allowed to nip or bite.  It is not teething, it is establishing dominance.  Neither is the run-and-I'll-bite-the-hem-of-your-jeans game a good idea...  what is cute as a puppy is a menace when the half grown puppy does it to the kids or your visiting elderly grandmother! 


Here�s a sample crate training schedule, as recommended by the famous Monk's of New Skete:

6:30 am
Walk puppy

7:00 am
Food and water
Walk puppy.
Briefly play with puppy.
Crate Puppy

Walk puppy and then stay with puppy for 15 min.
Crate Puppy

Food and water
Walk puppy
Play with puppy
Crate Puppy

5:00 pm
Food and Water
Walk puppy
Keep puppy with family during meal preparations

7:00 pm
Short walk.
Playtime with puppy
Crate Puppy
Before bed - 10pm:
Walk puppy
Crate puppy for the night.

Crate training your Labradoodle is more of pattern training than anything else. When you take her out in the morning go to the same spot, use the same door. Even if your yard is secure, walk her out with a leash to make sure she eliminates. Watch her closely because just before she is ready to go, repeat a command. In our house, we use "Potty Time".

Labradoodles are very fast learners and if you are consistent with your crate training, your Labradoodle puppy will be potty trained in no time at all. Before you know it, you'll be able to take her out for a walk and just say "Potty Time" and your puppy will be pattern trained to go potty on command.

Housesoiling is a spatial problem, involving perfectly normal, natural, and necessary canine behaviors (peeing and pooping) performed in inappropriate places.

Housetraining is quickly and easily accomplished by praising your puppy and offering a food treat when she eliminates in an appropriate toilet area. Once your pup realizes that her eliminatory products are the equivalent of coins in a food vending machine that feces and urine may be cashed in for tasty treats, your pup will be clamoring to eliminate in the appropriate spot, because soiling the house does not bring equivalent fringe benefits.

Housesoiling is also a temporal problem: either the puppy is in the wrong place at the right time (confined indoors with full bladder and bowels), or the puppy is in the right place at the wrong time (outdoors in the yard or on a walk, but with empty bladder and bowels).

Timing is the essence of successful housetraining. Indeed, efficient and effective housetraining depends upon the owner being able to predict when the puppy needs to eliminate so that she may be directed to an appropriate toilet area and more than adequately rewarded for doing the right thing in the right place at the right time.

Usually, puppies urinate within half a minute of waking up from a nap and usually defecate within a couple of minutes of that. But who has the time to hang around to wait for puppy to wake up and pee and poop? Instead it's a better plan to wake up the puppy yourself, when you are ready and the time is right.

Short-term confinement to a dog crate offers a convenient means to accurately predict when your puppy needs to relieve herself. Confining a pup to a small area strongly inhibits her from urinating or defecating, since she doesn't want to soil her sleeping area. Hence, the puppy is highly likely to want to eliminate immediately after being released from confinement.

Housetraining Is as Easy as 1-2-3

When you are away from home or if you are too busy or distracted to adhere to the following schedule, keep your puppy confined to her puppy playroom where she has a suitable doggy toilet. Otherwise, when you are at home:
1. Keep your puppy closely confined to her doggy den (crate) or on-leash.
2. Every hour on the hour release your pup from confinement and quickly run her (on-leash if necessary) to the toilet area, instruct your pup to eliminate "Go for a Walk", and give her three minutes to do so.
3. Enthusiastically praise your puppy when she eliminates, offer three freeze-dried liver treats or a hardy scratch on the chest for the good work!  Then play/train with the pup indoors; once your puppy is old enough to go outside, take her for a walk after she eliminates.

If errorless housetraining is so easy, why do so many dog owners experience problems? Here are some common questions and answers that help make errorless housetraining work.

Why confine the pup to his doggy den? Why not his playroom?

Short-term close confinement allows you to predict when your puppy wants to go so that you may be there to direct him to the appropriate spot and reward him for doing the right thing in the right place at the right time. During the hour-long periods of close confinement, as your puppy lies doggo in dreamy repose, his bladder and bowels are slowly but surely filling up. Whenever the big hand reaches twelve and you dutifully release the pup to run to his indoor toilet or backyard doggy toilet to relieve himself, your puppy is likely to eliminate pronto. Knowing when your puppy wants to go allows you to choose the spot and most importantly to reward your puppy handsomely for using it. Rewarding your puppy for using his toilet is the secret to successful housetraining. If on the other hand the puppy were left in his playroom, he would most likely use his indoor toilet but would not be rewarded for doing so.

What if my puppy doesn't like going in his crate?

Before confining your puppy to his crate (doggy den), you first need to teach him to love the crate and to love confinement. This is so easy to do. Stuff a couple of hollow chewtoys with kibble and the occasional treat. Let your puppy sniff the stuffed chewtoys and then place them in the crate and shut the door with your puppy on the outside. Usually it takes just a few seconds for your puppy to beg you to open the door and let him inside. In no time at all, your pup will be happily preoccupied with his chewtoys.
When leaving the puppy in his long-term confinement area, tie the stuffed chewtoys to the inside of the crate and leave the crate door open. Thus, the puppy can choose whether he wants to explore the small area or lie down on his bed in his crate and try to extricate the kibble and treats from his chewtoys. Basically, the stuffed chewtoys are confined to the crate and the puppy is given the option of coming or going at will. Most puppies choose to rest comfortably inside the crate with stuffed chewtoys for entertainment. This technique works especially well if your puppy is not fed kibble from a bowl but only from chewtoys or by hand, as lures and rewards in training. To use this method, each morning measure out the puppy�s daily ration of food into a bag to avoid overfeeding.

What if I don't like putting my puppy in a crate?

Short-term confinement, whether to a crate or tie-down, is a temporary training measure to help you teach your puppy where to eliminate and what to chew. A dog crate is the best housetraining tool to help you accurately predict when your dog wishes to relieve herself and is the best training tool to help you to teach your puppy to become a chewtoyaholic. Once your puppy has learned to eliminate only in appropriate areas and to chew only appropriate objects, she may be given free run of the house and garden for the rest of her life. You will probably find however, that after just a few days your puppy learns to love her crate and will voluntarily rest inside. Your puppy's very own den is a quiet, comfortable, and special doggy place.
If, on the other hand, your puppy is given unsupervised free run of the house from the outset, the odds are that she will be confined later on, first to the yard, then to the basement, then to a cage in an animal shelter, and then to a coffin. Without a doubt, housesoiling and destructive chewing are the two most prevalent terminal illnesses in dogs. Using a dog crate will help you prevent these problems from ever developing in your puppy.

Why not just leave the puppy outdoors until he is housetrained?

Who is going to housetrain your pup outside, a shrub? If the dog is left outside unattended, he will become an indiscriminate eliminator. Basically, your puppy will learn to go wherever he wants, whenever he wants, and he will likely do the same whenever you let him indoors. Puppies left outdoors and unsupervised for long periods of time seldom become housetrained. Also, they tend to become indiscriminate barkers, chewers, diggers, and escapists, and they may be more easily stolen. Outdoor puppies also become so excited on the few occasions they are invited indoors that eventually they are no longer allowed inside at all.

Why release the pup every hour?

Why not every 55 minutes or every three hours? Is it really necessary to do it on the hour?
Puppies have a 45-minute bladder capacity at three weeks of age, 75-minute capacity at eight weeks, 90-minute capacity at twelve weeks and two-hour capacity at 18 weeks. Releasing your puppy every hour offers you an hourly opportunity to reward your dog for using a designated toilet area. You do not have to do this precisely each hour, but it is much easier to remember to do so each hour on the hour.

Why run the puppy to the toilet? Why not walk sedately?

If you take your time getting your puppy to his doggy toilet, you may find that he pees or poops en route. Hurrying your puppy tends to jiggle his bowels and bladder so that he really wants to go the moment you let him stand still and sniff his toilet area.

Why not just put the puppy outside by himself? Can't he do it on his own?

Of course he can. But the whole point of predicting when your puppy wants to relieve himself is so you can show him where and offer well-deserved praise and reward. Thus your puppy will learn where you would like him to go. Also, if you see your puppy eliminate, you know that he is empty; you may then allow your empty puppy supervised exploration of the house for a while before returning him to his den.

Why instruct the pup to eliminate? Doesn't he know he wants to go?

By instructing your puppy to eliminate beforehand and by rewarding him for eliminating afterward, you will teach your pup to go on command. Eliminating on cue is a boon when you are traveling with your dog and in other time-constrained situations. Ask your pup to "Go for a Walk" or use some other socially acceptable, euphemistic eliminatory command.

Why give the puppy three minutes? Isn't one minute sufficient?

Usually, a young pup will urinate within 30 seconds of being released from short-term confinement, but it may take one or two minutes for him to defecate. It is certainly worthwhile to allow your pup three minutes to complete his business

What if the puppy doesn't go?

Your puppy will be more likely to eliminate if you stand still and let him circle around you on leash. If your puppy does not eliminate within the allotted time, no biggie! Simply pop the pup back in his crate and try again in half an hour. Repeat the process over and over until he does eliminate. Eventually, your puppy will eliminate outdoors and you will be able to reward him. Therefore, on subsequent hourly trips to his toilet your puppy will be likely to eliminate promptly.

Why praise the puppy? Isn't relief sufficient reward?

It is far better to express your emotions when praising your puppy for getting it right, than when reprimanding the poor pup for getting it wrong. So really praise that pup: "Gooooooooood Puppy!" Housetraining is no time for understated thank yous. Don't be embarrassed about praising your puppy. Embarrassed dog owners usually end up with housesoiling problems. Really reward your puppy. Tell your puppy that he has done a most wonderful and glorious thing!

Why offer treats? Isn't praise sufficient reward? 

In a word, no! The average person cannot effectively praise a moribund lettuce. And specifically, many owners especially men seem incapable of convincingly praising their puppies. Consequently, it might be a good idea to give the pup a food treat or two (or three) for his effort. Input for output! "Wow! My owner's great. Every time I pee or poop outside, she gives me a treat. I never get yummy treats when I do it on the couch. I can't wait for my owner to come home so I can go out in the yard and cash in my urine and feces for food treats!" In fact, why not keep some treats in a screw-top jar handy to the doggy toilet?

Why freeze-dried liver?

Housetraining is one of those times when you want to pull out all of the stops. Take my word for it: When it comes to housetraining, use the Ferrari of dog treats, freeze-dried liver.

Do we really have to give three liver treats when the puppy pees or poops? Isn't this a wee bit anal retentive?

Yes and no. Certainly you do not have to give your puppy exactly three treats every time. But it's a funny thing: If I suggest that people offer a treat each time their puppy eliminates promptly in the right place, they rarely follow instructions. Whenever I tell people to give three treats, however, they will painstakingly count out the treats to give to their puppy. Here's what I am trying to say: Handsomely praise and reward your puppy every time he uses a designated toilet area.

Why play with the puppy indoors?

If you reward your pup for using his doggy toilet, you will know he is empty. "Thank you, empty puppy!" What better time to play with or train your puppy indoors without facing the risk of a messy mistake. Why get a puppy unless you want to spend some quality (feces-free) time with him?

Why bother to take an older puppy outdoors for a walk when he's empty?

Many people fall into the trap of taking their puppy outside or walking him so that he may eliminate, and when he does they bring him indoors. Usually it takes just a couple of trials before the puppy learns, "Whenever my urine or feces hits the ground, my walk ends!" Consequently, the pup becomes reluctant to eliminate outside, and so when brought home after a long jiggling play or walk, he is in dire need to relieve himself. Which he does. It is a much better plan to praise your puppy for using his doggy toilet and then take him for a walk as a reward for eliminating.
Get in the habit of taking an older puppy to his doggy toilet (in your yard or curbside in front of your apartment building), standing still, and waiting for the pup to eliminate. Praise the pup and offer liver treats when he does: "Good dog, let's go walkies!" Clean up and dispose of the feces in your own trash can, and then go and enjoy a poopless walk with your dog. After just a few days with a simple "no poop, no walk" rule, you'll find you have the quickest urinator and defecator in town.

What should I do if I've done all the above and I catch the puppy in the act of making a mistake?

Pick up a rolled newspaper and give yourself a smack! Obviously you did not follow the instructions above. Who allowed the urine-and-feces-filled puppy to have free-range access to your house? You! Should you ever reprimand or punish your puppy when you catch him in the act, all he will learn is to eliminate in secret�that is, never again in your untrustworthy presence. Thus you will have created an owner-absent housesoiling problem. If you ever catch your pup in the act of making a mistake that was your fault, at the very most you can quickly, softly, but urgently implore your pup, "Outside, outside, outside!" The tone and urgency of your voice communicates that you want your puppy to do something promptly, and the meaning of the words instruct the puppy where. Your response will have limited effect on the present mistake, but it helps prevent future mistakes.

Never reprimand your dog in a manner that is not instructive. Nonspecific reprimands only create more problems (owner-absent misbehavior) as well as frightening the pup and eroding the puppy-owner relationship. Your puppy is not a "bad puppy." On the contrary, your puppy is a good puppy that has been forced to misbehave because his owner could not, or would not, follow simple instructions.
Please reread and follow the above instructions!

The Doggy Toilet

For the best doggy toilet, equip a litter box or cover a flat tray with what will be the dog's eventual toilet material. For example, for rural and suburban pups that will eventually be taught to relieve themselves outside on earth or grass, lay down a roll of turf. For urban puppies that will eventually be taught to eliminate at curbside, lay down a couple of thin concrete tiles. Your puppy will soon develop a very strong natural preference for eliminating on similar outdoor surfaces whenever he can.
If you have a backyard dog toilet area, in addition to the indoor playroom toilet, take your pup to his outdoor toilet in the yard whenever you release him from his doggy den.

If you live in an apartment and do not have a yard, teach your puppy to use his indoor toilet until he is old enough to venture outdoors at three months of age.

For a goog indoor or balcony doggy toilet check out PetaPotty or The Pet Loo.

Training Your Dog to Use an Outdoor Toilet

For the first few weeks, take your puppy outside on-leash. Hurry to his toilet area and then stand still to allow the puppy to circle (as he would normally do before eliminating). Reward your puppy each time he "goes" in the designated spot. If you have a fenced yard, you may later take your puppy outside off-leash and let him choose where he would like to eliminate. But make sure to reward him differentially according to how close he hits ground zero. Offer one treat for doing it outside quickly, two treats for doing it within, say, five yards of the outdoor doggy toilet, three treats for within two yards, and five treats for a bull's eye.

Once your dog has not had a housesoiling mistake for at least three months, you may increase your puppy's playroom to two rooms. For each subsequent month without a mistake your puppy may gain access to another room, until eventually he enjoys free run of the entire house and garden when left at home alone. If a housesoiling mistake should occur, go back to the original puppy confinement program for at least a month.


Puppies need to be fed three times a day until they are 5 months old, at which time you can safely eliminate the mid day meal.  Feeding at the same time (twice per day) will keep your dog on a regular bathroom schedule, thus preventing accidents and stress.

A dog's digestive system is sensitive to changes in food so be careful when adding things to, or changing a dog's diet.  If your dog is not able to tolerate new food, or when a change has been made too quickly to his diet, be prepared to deal with diarrhea for a while.

When switching to a new food, gradually transition him by mixing portions of the new food with the old until you are able to slowly phase out the old food.  Your dog may experience diarrhea if his food is changed too suddenly.  This is not fun for him......or you.

Keep fresh drinking water available at all times.  Keep food and water bowls clean, try not to over feed your dog.  Overfeeding dogs has been proven to contribute to the incidences of Hip Dysplasia in certain cases.  Your dog should look lean, not plump.



Housebreaking your puppy can be extremely frustrating if you do not practice consistency.  Every hour to an hour, take your puppy outside, place him in the area you want him to relieve himself in, and say "Go Potty!" or whatever words you want to use to indicate that you want your puppy to go.  You will be most successful with getting your puppy to understand what you want of him if you are able to time this when you know he has to go, and he is naturally ready to eliminate himself.  As soon as he begins to go, praise DURING the act, not after.  This is extremely important!  Say, "Good Dog!" or "Good potty!".  Your puppy will begin to associate your praise with what he is doing during your praise and where he is doing it.  The more times you are able to successfully make this happen and the more consistent you are, the easier it will be for your puppy to potty train.

If you catch your puppy eliminating in the house, say "No!" in a firm voice and quickly scoop him up and carry him to the appropriate place outside.  Wait for him to go again, and remember to praise him
DURING the act.  Your puppy will eventually be completely trained, but be patient, some puppies take longer than others.  Do not expect your puppy to go for hours without eliminating himself.  At this age he is unable to control his bladder, and it is up to you to make sure he is given many opportunities to relieve himself, and to establish what you expect of him.



Before you crate train, please be aware: a dog can become very unhappy and destructive if he is left in a crate all day long, let out in the evening after work for a few hours and then put back into the crate for the night.

If you work all day, it is recommended that you find someone who can let your dog out for a potty break and play time around midday if you intend on crating your dog while you are gone.  If this is not possible, then only use the crate at night.  If you must leave your dog all day long every day and you have nobody to let the dog out during the day, you should find a room that he can be contained in and put down food, water and toys. A kitchen, bathroom, or utility room works great.  You should set up the room so that a bed and food are at one end and pee pads or newspaper at the other.   They need to find something to occupy their mind, so give your dog plenty of toys. Dogs are den animals and will usually come to enjoy the crate, but even a den animal would go crazy if it was locked up all day long.

Buy a crate and for the first few weeks keep your puppy in it when you are not with him, but not for more than a few hours at a time.  Make sure the crate is not too big. It should be large enough for the puppy to stand up, turn around, stretch out, but no larger.  Dogs do not want to soil their bed and the use of a crate teaches them to control their urge to eliminate.

When your puppy is not in his crate you must maintain a close watch at all times.  As soon as you see him pacing, sniffing around, and turning in circles, immediately take him outside.  He is telling you "I am going to go potty somewhere, and this looks like as good a place as any."

Be patient and do not rush your puppy.  He may have to go several times in one "pit stop."  Give him about 10 minutes before taking him back inside.  Do not play with him while you are on potty training ventures.  Let him know this is a business trip. Make sure you take him out after every meal and play session BEFORE you put him back in his crate.

Be consistent and establish a schedule. Pay attention to your puppy's behavior so you can develop a schedule that works for you and the pup.  When does your puppy naturally go?  In the morning?  10 minutes after eating?  Around bedtime?  You may have to make some compromises.

Make sure everyone who is involved in the housebreaking process is using the same spot in the yard and the same words.  Everyone should agree on the place they will take the puppy.  The odor from the previous visits will cause the puppy to want to go in that spot.

Until your puppy is about 5 months old you will need to take him out frequently and keep an eye on him. But before you know it, you are going to be able to trust him to tell you when he needs to go or learn his cues.  And he will learn that when he pleases you by going out to do his business, he gets more freedom in the house.

Important: Remain consistent. Do not allow your puppy to do something one day and not the next. This will confuse him. Never leave an untrained puppy unattended in the house. Make your dog understand what is expected of him. Dogs want to please. Always praise your dog for good behavior. No form of physical punishment is as effective as praise and encouragement.



It is important to start training your new puppy as soon as you bring him home.  Local dog training classes are often available. Ask your veterinarian to recommend a trainer or look in your local newspaper for a trainer in your area.

There are two types of training: behavioral, and obedience.

Behavioral training corrects bad habits that your puppy or dog may have developed. Jumping, car chasing, begging, climbing on furniture, and chewing are just a few. It is very important to be consistent during the training process. For example, do not let your puppy on the couch unless you are planning to always let him. If you do this, it will confuse him and cause training problems.

Obedience training
sessions should be frequent but short to prevent your dog from becoming bored: ten to fifteen minute sessions, two or three times a day will be sufficient.

Before giving a word command to your dog, speak its name to get its attention; then speak a one-word command such as "stay," "sit," "come" or "heel." Do not get impatient. You will probably have to repeat the command many times. Never use negative reinforcement. Do not call your dog to come to you for punishment because this will teach your dog not to come on command. Be sure to keep any frustration out of the tone of your voice. If you feel yourself becoming frustrated,
take a break. Your dog can sense this and will start to associate training with your unhappiness.

Some of the specific commands are "sit," "stay," "come," "down" and "heel." When speaking the commands, say them loudly and clearly, repeating them often. The dog may have to hear the commands over and over, but will soon begin to associate the word with its meaning. Always remember to praise your dog when it responds correctly. This will encourage your dog to perform correctly the next time. You may either use food or a verbal praise as the reward or both.

Tips on teaching your dog or puppy to sit:

When teaching your dog to sit, hold your hand high over its head with a reward in it. Your dog will look up at the reward. Use your other hand to gently push the dog's behind into a sitting position and say in a clear, firm tone, "SIT" while still holding the reward in the air above the dog's head. When your dog sits, give him the treat and verbally praise him. Do not allow your dog to jump up and grab the reward out of your hand. Say firmly, "NO." You will have to repeat this over and over. Eventually your dog will associate sitting with the reward and will sit without your assistance. Remember the training sessions should be short but frequent. Repeat this method periodically throughout the day. If you get frustrated, stop and try again later.

Tips on teaching your dog or puppy to stay and come:

It is usually best to teach your dog to sit before you teach it to stay. The reason is: your dog will have an easier time staying if he is in a sitting position. After your dog has the sitting command down and has been correctly sitting for a couple of days without assistance, it is time to teach your dog to stay and come. Tell your dog to sit. Have two rewards in your hand. After your dog sits, give him one reward. Hold your empty hand up like a stop sign in front of your dog's face and back up slowly saying "STAY" clearly, firmly, and frequently. Be sure to stay facing your dog and remain looking at him. Go a short distance and say with some enthusiasm, "COME." When your dog comes to you reward him again. If your dog gets up and runs to you without the "COME" command, say "NO" and start all over again. Remember to verbally praise him as well as provide a food reward when he gets a new command right. Start off only backing up a short distance from your dog. As he begins to understand what you want of him, you may back farther away and eventually you may be able to walk out of site and have your dog still stay until  he hears the "COME" command. Remember to be consistent and stop if you become frustrated. Your dog can sense frustration and it will confuse him. He wants to please you. If he senses frustration, he may learn to not like the training sessions.

Tips on teaching your dog to lie down:

After successfully teaching your dog to sit, stay, and come - without assistance, it's time to teach it to lie down on command. Tell your dog to sit. Show him the reward you have in your hand. Hold the reward up and then bring it down in front of the dog to the floor and say "DOWN or DROP" in a firm clear voice. Only give the reward if he lies down to reach it. Do not give it to him if he stands up to reach his reward. Again repeat this throughout the day as much as possible, keeping sessions short but frequent.

Each training session should include any new commands you are trying as well as old commands the dog has already learned - so the dog does not forget them. Always be consistent. Important: If you become frustrated, stop and try again later.

Coat Care

We focus only on the allergy friendly coats. Labradoodles seldom need a bath and are naturally blessed to not have that "doggie" smell. Their fleece is almost resistant to dirt. The more you bathe your labradoodle the less natural oils will be in their coat. Fleas are also rare and if you live in an area with a high flea population we encourage you to use a topical flea repellant.

There are three types of labradoodle coats:

1. A hair coat is generally a low shed coat and is mainly seen in earlier generations of labradoodles. For an example a lab/poodle cross F1 or an F1B or sometimes an F2B.

2. A wool curly coat is the most allergy friendly coat. If your family suffers with asthma this would be the coat for you. Loose wool coats are easy to care.  Clip as needed.

3. A fleece coat is gorgeous and a true fleece coat shouldn't shed. It offers medium maintenance and can be scissor-ed or clipped like a wool coat and grow back to its long flowing style.
When your puppy's adult coat comes in (around 8-12 months), it is important to know that your puppy will need to be stripped three times a week for 3-4 weeks to support its coat with easy care for the life of your dog. After this only monthly maintenance is required.

Stripping involves a tool used to strip the coat from the skin all over your puppy.  After stripping your puppy, you should also spritz with water to refluff the curls and avoid matting.  Trim the dogs hair under their ear flap very short so that air can circulate